Bookbinding has always appealed to me because it’s such an accessible craft with a low barrier to entry. You don’t need a studio full of specialized tools to get started, just a handful of basics, many of which you might already have tucked away in a craft drawer or supply closet. In this post, I’m covering my top recommendations for anyone looking to start their bookbinding tool collection. These staples are always on my workbench (or not too far from reach). While you may choose to upgrade or replace some of these items eventually, starting with quality basics doesn’t require a hefty investment. With a modest budget, you can assemble a toolkit that will serve you well for years to come.
1. Bone or Teflon Folder
A smooth-edged tool used to crease, fold, and score paper and materials. These tools typically feature a broader, blunt edge on one end and a narrow or tapered end on the other. The narrow end is often used for scoring or detail work. One of the key distinctions between natural bone and synthetic teflon folders are that folders made from bone have the potential to “glaze” or cause shiny areas to appear when rubbed against certain materials. A teflon folder has a noticeably different, almost slippery, finish and is a great low-friction alternative that does not leave burnish marks on papers or fabrics. In my personal practice, I find reasons to use both and often alternate between the two types depending on my task.
2. Awl
A sharp, pointed tool used for marking and piecing holes in paper, book board, fabric, leather, and other materials. Awls come with a variety of handle shapes, usually made of wood or metal, and are also available with either tapered or straight piercing shafts. Straight shafts are generally more beginner-friendly, while tapered shafts require more practice and control to prevent unintentionally creating larger holes as you pierce further through your paper. The most affordable awls often have a single-size shaft that is permanently attached to the handle. However, if you have a little more room in your budget, I would highly recommend getting an awl that has an adjustable vice which makes it easy to replace piercing needles that have become dull and also enables you to swap out different needle sizes.
3. Metal Ruler
A steel and/or aluminum tool used for measuring, drawing lines, and cutting along a straight edge. Metal rulers are extremely durable and are my preferred type over plastic, especially when used as a cutting edge. With plastic rulers, I’ve noticed that the blade of my knife can easily damage and/or shave off parts of the plastic when making cuts—making the edge no longer perfectly straight. And after an acutely distressing X-acto knife incident during my freshman year of design school, I also strongly suggest buying a metal ruler that has non-slip backing and a finger guard.
Safety notes aside, you may be surprised to learn that in the U.S., most professional bookbinders use the metric system rather than U.S. Customary System. From a practical point of view, the metric system is an international standard recognized and used by most other countries of the world. You’ll also likely notice that a lot of materials, like paper weights and book board thicknesses, are measured and described using the metric system too. What I appreciate most is how much easier it is to do math, as this decimal system is based on powers of 10. Over the past few years, I’ve also adopted the use of metric rulers in my practice and trained my eyes and brain to recognize common millimeter measurements used in book making.
4. Craft Knife / Rotary Cutter
A sharp-edged tool used for cutting materials with precision. Craft knives come in many sizes and shapes and can have fixed, replaceable, and/or retractable blades. My go-to craft knife is the OLFA brand with a 9mm blade that features multiple, breakable joints. When the OLFA blade becomes dull you can easily snap off the end (at one of the joints) for a newly fresh edge. I also often use a larger, heavy-duty OLFA knife with 18mm blades for cutting thicker materials like book board. While craft knives like X-actos and OLFAs are great for paper-based materials, I’ve found that when it comes to cutting fabric or bookcloth, a rotary cutter delivers cleaner results. I’ve noticed that flat-edged knives can cause the fabric to tear or fray along the edges.
5. Cutting Mat
A rubber-based, self-healing mat that often features gridlines for measuring and alignments. I have a few sizes sprinkled about my studio: 1 large mat that takes up a the width of my main work table and a few smaller ones that I have on hand if I need additional cutting space or am working on smaller sized projects. These mats are great for straight cut lines. However, if you’re also using it for table protection when poking holes in your paper with an awl, I suggest adding a scrap sheet of cardboard or a few sheets of card stock underneath your material. This helps avoid creating divots in the mat which can sometimes snag the tip of your cutting blade.
6. Scissors
An instrument that consists of two blade edges that slide against one another to cut materials such as paper, thread, and cloth. Bookbinding-specific scissors are often referred to as “Bookbinding Shears.” These shears are adapted from traditional tailors’ scissors and feature sturdier blades along with a uniquely blunt tip. Bookbinding shears are generally suitable for cutting heavier materials like card stock, leather, and thick cords. For most situations, I find it useful to have two scissor types—one large pair for general cutting and rounding corners and one pair of embroidery scissors (that have a small, pointy tip) for precise cutting and snipping sewing threads.
7. Sewing Needles
A thin, metal instrument with a point at one end and a polished hole or “eye” for thread at the other. Bookbinding needles can be straight or curved and are used for sewing the pages of a book together. Many bookbinding-specific needles are also known to have blunt ends, as it’s not necessary for these needles to also pierce the paper (this step is usually done with an awl before sewing). The needle shape and size you choose ultimately comes down to the binding structure, thread thickness, and your personal preference. I find that straight needles are great for simple, “sew along” bindings where you mainly move the needle in and out of a signature’s sewing holes. Curved needles can be handy for sewing patterns that require you to weave in-between or over other threads—like in Coptic or French Link bindings. A #18 needle is a great general-purpose size that I regularly use and also see recommended by many other binders. If you have difficulty sourcing bookbinding-specific needles, you may find better luck searching for terms like “saddlers’ needles” and/or “mattress and upholstery needles.”
8. Glue Brushes
A tool that consists of a handle paired with natural bristles or synthetic fibers used for applying adhesive to different materials. In bookbinding, round brushes made with hog bristles are commonly used due their naturally strong, flexible hairs. In addition, these natural bristles tend to hold larger amounts of glue or paste which allows for easier, even distribution across surfaces. Synthetic brushes and sponges, commonly made from materials like nylon and polyester, are generally less expensive and can come in a larger range of shapes and sizes. I actually prefer using synthetic brushes, as the fibers are usually thinner and offer more control and precision, especially when getting into the nooks and crannies of a sewn spine.
In general, the size of your glue brush should correspond to the size of the surface area you’re working on. For example, when covering a large area, you’ll also want to use a larger brush that can fully cover your surface with minimal strokes. Using a brush that’s too small can lead to multiple trips back to the glue pot, which increases the chance of the adhesive drying unevenly and can potentially cause bubbles or wrinkles in your materials.
9. Press Boards
Flat, rigid boards (typically made from Plywood or MDF) used to apply uniform compression during various stages of the bookbinding process. Press boards are typically used in pairs, with your project sandwiched in-between, often with added weight on top or used in a book press. This process ensures everything stays together, remains flat, and helps prevent materials from warping when glued. Acrylic boards are also a popular alternative due to their smooth surface and durability. Just keep in mind that unlike wood or MDF, acrylic doesn’t absorb moisture. During glue-heavy processes like casing-in, this can mean moisture has nowhere to go, increasing the risk of warping. Using wood or MDF boards can help mitigate this issue by absorbing some of the moisture. When starting out, using a wooden kitchen cutting board (or even a hefty book) along with the flat surface of a table can be just as effective.
10. Weights
In bookbinding, weights are very versatile tools, assisting in various tasks like applying additional pressure when gluing and pressing materials, keeping materials from shifting when tracing templates or cutting patterns, and holding stacks of signatures in place while sewing. For solid weights, bricks are a great economical and readily available option. Just be sure to wrap them in paper or fabric to protect your materials from potential damage. Personally, I’ve found that using heavy books or even exercise weights work just as well. When working with irregular surfaces, using a soft, flexible weight can be more ideal. Filling a pouch with rice, pebbles, or marbles can create a weight that conforms to your project’s contours better, providing more effective pressure than a solid weight.
11. Binder Clips
A simple, clamp-like tool, designed to firmly hold multiple sheets of paper together without puncturing the pages or leaving a mark. Binder clips are great for temporarily holding a stack of pages together when gluing along an edge (like in a perfect binding), keeping pages aligned when sewing through an entire stack of pages (like in a stab binding), or simply keeping pages open when photographing a book. I find it helpful to have several different binder clips on hand and would suggest purchasing a multi-pack with assorted sizes to give you the most flexibility.
I hope this list gives you a helpful starting point for starting your own bookbinding tool collection! I also realize that for some, it can be easy to get caught up in acquiring all the “right” supplies before starting a new craft or hobby (I’m certainly guilty of this). However, many of these tools have simple, low to no-cost substitutes. No bone folder? Use your hands! No awl? A needle or pushpin can work in a pinch. I created many of my early books with just a few of these “essential” items, so don’t let the lack of specific tools hold you back from starting. I encourage you to keep this in mind for my next post too, where we’ll delve into basic consumable materials like paper, adhesives, thread, and more.
Until then, happy binding and see you in the next chapter!
–Allyx
A Special Note: My Bookbinding Resource Guide Is on the Horizon!
Over the past few years, I’ve been diligently compiling a comprehensive list of *all* my favorite bookbinding tools, materials, and trusted suppliers. I’m currently in the process of designing a resource guide with clickable links to everything from basic equipment to professional presses. This project is a little of a labor of love and is still in the early stages, but my goal is to have it available in late 2025. If there’s anything specific you think should be included, please feel free to send me an email to share your suggestions!